January 30th, 2012
We have a variety of educational pets at Animal Family Veterinary Care Center. Miracle, our turtle was hatched in 1999. That makes her young by Box Turtle standards. They can live up to 75 years or more. It may surprise you to learn that turtles have very distinct personalities. Miracle is very social and loves interacting with people. Even though Miracle is quite social, many box turtles are not. Fortunately, Box turtles rarely bite and then it’s only when they mistake a finger for food.
Box turtles get their name from the hinged portion of their shell. It allows them to pull their legs and head into their shell and close the doors. This is how they try to protect themselves from predators. Unfortunately, it’s not fool proof. Crafty birds have learned to drop the turtles from on high to break shells and dogs and raccoons can chew through them.
Box turtles are terrestrial or land based. That means they spend the bulk of their time on dry land but are usually never too far from a pond. Pet turtles like a swimming area too. Unfortunately they aren’t very good at keeping their water clean so it will require daily changing.
Box turtles enjoy a variety of food. To stay healthy they need a mix of meat, fruits and veggies. Our Miracle is quite fond of earthworms. She also likes dog food and meal worms. We mix in a large variety of greens and fruits as well. You can buy a commercial turtle food but it should never be the sole source of any turtle’s diet.
Miracle’s home is a glass terrarium that is appointed with rocks, water and cob bedding. Bark or alfalfa pellets may also be used. Never use sand or cat litter. A minimum size of 36” X 12” is recommended.
Heating is a very important part of maintaining a pet turtle’s health. The ideal is around 85 to 88 degrees F. Place a heat lamp in one area of the enclosure so your turtle is able to get away from the heat source when they want. Too much heat can be just as deadly as not enough. Floor heaters and heat rocks are also available but make certain to use them properly.
Turtles can develop a variety of health problems Beaks and nails can become overgrown due to lack of foraging and other activities which would wear them down naturally in the wild. Metabolic bone disease and soft shells can develop from either under feeding or a lack of variety in diet.
Remember, a turtle that is fed properly will never develop this problem. Shell rot is another health issue with turtles. It is caused when bacteria gets between the shell layers either because of damage to the shell or wet, unsanitary conditions. Turtles can also have internal parasites just like other pets so be sure to have a stool check. Upper respiratory infections are also common. They may present with nasal discharge, puffy eyes or both. With severe respiratory distress a turtle may extend its neck and gape. Obviously any respiratory problems require a visit to the vet as well as a close look at your husbandry. Finally, wounds can occur on the face and legs of your turtle. If these become infected they will require a trip to the Vet.
Do turtles carry salmonella? Yes, some do but not all. Either way, you can greatly minimize your risk by following CDC guidelines.
- The kitchen sink is for people. Don’t wash turtle dishes or turtles in it.
- Clean and disinfect your turtles enclosure regularly
- Wash your hands after handling your pet
- No kissing turtles or touching them to your face.
- Quarantine any new turtles for 6 weeks
- and, yes, you can have your vet test to see if your turtle is carrying salmonella.
Please visit the CDC site for more complete guidelines.
Hopefully this has wetted your appetite to learn more about turtles. Remember if you have any more questions, call us or check out our website.
Tags: animal adoption, animal care, animal hospital, animal nutrition, animal therapy, Box Turtles, exotic pets, exotic vet, pet care, pet health, pet therapy, reptile, reptile doctor, turtle doctor, turtle hospital, turtle vet, turtles, veterinarian, veterinary care, veterinary clinic, veterinary hospital
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January 16th, 2012
We recently added a new pet to our educational animals at the Animal Family. “Gnomeo” is an African Pygmy Hedgehog. In spite of his prickly nature, he is not related to porcupines. Even though Hedgehogs spines are quite sharp, unlike porcupines, their spines do not shed and will not become lodged in the skin. If frightened, a hedgehog will defend itself by rolling into
a tiny, prickly ball. In the wild, they are generally solitary in nature. They seem to prefer solitude in captivity as well. Although Hedgehogs can be handled with bare hands, gloves are recommended.
As a pet, Hedgehogs are a small, reasonably clean, relatively odor free and non-aggressive. They will vocalize through quiet snorting, whistling or huffing sounds. If handled on a routine basis from a young age most will become quite friendly. It is easy to see why we are seeing more of them in practice
The average pet hedgehog can be expected to live from 3-8 years. In captivity Hedgehogs are nocturnal but will emerge during the day. They hibernate in the wild but this is not necessary in captivity and will not occur as long as temperatures are maintained at 75 to 80 F.
Hedgehogs have some unique qualities. They have a unique protein which inhibits the activity of snake venom. This allows them to attack and eat snakes in the wild. Another unusual hedgehog trait is “anointing”. If a hedgehog is exposed to a strong smelling substance, they will produce large amounts of saliva which they use to coat their spines. Nobody knows why they do this but if you find your hedgehog covered in the cat’s fishy food, don’t become alarmed.
Hedgehogs require smooth walled, enclosure with a minimum floor space of 2’ X2’. They can climb so make any enclosure tall enough so that the animal can’t reach the top with its front feet. Do not put your Hedgehog in a wire enclosure. Regular cleaning is important if you wish to keep your pet healthy. Newspaper, about 3” in depth, either shredded or pelleted makes good bedding. Corn cob or alfalfa pellets can also be used. Do not use any bedding that clumps or any aromatic wood product such as cedar or pine. Give your hedgehog has a place to hide that is not much larger than he is and easy to disinfect. Plants or rocks can be added as well but should be non toxic and easy to clean. Provide a shallow pan of water for bathing as well as a sipper bottle. Make sure your hedgehog understands how to drink from his bottle.
Hedgehogs require regular exercise. Either a commercial exercise ball that is suitable for Guinea Pigs or an exercise wheel will work. If you choose to let your Hedgehog run loose, be careful of carpets and other cloth material which can get caught up in feet as well as anal/genital areas causing injury.
Your hedgehog can be maintained on either low calorie dog or cat food or commercial hedgehog diet (2 -3 Tsp /day). Make sure to add in small amounts of fruits, veggies (1 tsp) and insects (1 tsp). Do not feed nuts and grains or milk. Like so many of our exotic pets, low calcium is always a concern as is obesity. Clean and refill food and water on a daily basis. To prevent your Hedgehog from becoming overweight make sure to check its weight frequently.
Like all exotics, Hedgehogs will mask illness. Therefore it is important for you to remain vigilant. In general, Hedgehogs are prone to dental disease including oral cancers, Ringworm, obesity and overgrown nails. They can also acquire Leptospirosis, Rabies and Distemper like virus although there are no vaccines available at this time. Mites are the most common external parasite we see in Hedgehogs. A regular health check with a fecal
examination is important to maintaining your hedgehog’s health.
This is not meant to be an all inclusive guide to Hedgehogs. We do hope it has answered some questions for you. Feel free to ask us questions and to come in and meet Mr. Gnomeo.
Tags: animal care, animal clinic, animal nutrition, animal therapy, exotic pets, exotic vet, hedgehogs, pet adoption, pet care, pet nutrition, small mammals, veterinary, veterinary care, veterinary clinic, veterinary hospital
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January 9th, 2012
We really do understand that sometimes you wonder what motivates the people who care for your pets. Is it just a business? Do they really care as much as they appear to? What really goes on behind the scenes?
The truth is that although we wish we could help every animal regardless of the circumstances. Sometimes we can’t. It is frustrating for us too. So, instead, we try to work with rescue organizations, shelters and others. Of course, we do try to do our best by all our clients and to us…they often, really do become family.
But…sometimes, a case comes along where we can do something really special. That is what makes the story of the “Faceless Kitten” aka Jax, important to Animal Family.
Jax came in terribly injured but we didn’t have to put him to sleep. Doctor Rob donated his time and medical skills, the clinic donated the supplies, the technicians and assistants fostered and provided care while he recovered and Lacey welcomed him into her family.
Faris, one of our technicians, made the video that comprises our blog this week. It can be a little graphic because Jax had a severe injury but he healed perfectly so the ending is wonderful.
Are we blowing our own horn? Yeah…a little but mostly, we just wanted to share one of our happier stories with some of our favorite people.
Just click on the link below to see the story of the Faceless Kitten.
- The Incredible Story Of The Faceless Kitten At Animal Family Veterinary Care Center
The Faceless Kitten
Tags: animal adoption, animal care, animal clinic, animal hospital, animal therapy, cat care, Cat vaccinations, cat Vet, Faceless Kitten, feline care, kittens, pet adoption, pet care, pet health, veterinarian, veterinary, veterinary clinic, veterinary emergency, Veterinary ethics, veterinary hospital, video
Posted in Pet Education, Pet Fun, Uncategorized | 1 Comment »
December 29th, 2011
AAHA Pets’ Matter is a great source of information on pet health. This week we’d like to share their tips for keeping your dog healthy and active in the winter months. Just click on the link below.
AAHA Pet’s Matter
Have a wonderful and safe New Year!
Tags: animal care, animal clinic, animal nutrition, dog care, dog health, dog training, dog vet, pet care, pet health, puppies, puppy training, veterinarian, veterinary, veterinary clinic, veterinary hospital
Posted in Dog Training, Pet Health, Uncategorized, veterinarian | 2 Comments »
December 12th, 2011
Many families choose to add a new furry family member to their home at Christmas. Sadly when we think of a new pet most of us only think of puppies or kittens. It’s easy to do. Who doesn’t love a puppy and babies are wonderful and cuddly.
However, this holiday season, we at Animal family would like to suggest youbring home a shelter baby. For those of you with room in your heart but not in your home, please consider a donation of time, money, bedding or whatever you can spare. Most of our shelters are over crowded and stretched financially.
So we’ve said it before and once again, here are 10 good reasons your next pet should come from a shelter.
You know what you are getting. Unlike a puppy, if you adopt an adult animal, he/she will already have a fully developed personality. In addition, most shelters temperament test their animals before putting them up for adoption so there is little chance of bringing home an unstable animal. 
- Some animals receive extra training and socialization. How great is it to get a pet that is already house trained! Even better, if you adopt through an agency that utilizes foster care, your pet may have received some basic obedience training as well. Shelters will generally be willing to help you should problems develop post adoption.
- Your new companion wants and appreciates the chance to bond with you. Ending up in a shelter is a scary process. Pets may arrive there due to the death of a previous owner, financial difficulties, or simply because they got lost. These are usually great animals who just need a second chance and will be forever grateful to their new owner.
- Shelters are a better option than a puppy mill. You have no idea about the breeding, or socialization of animals that come from a puppy mill. You may pay a large amount of money for a pet that has spent its entire life in a small kennel with little human contact. When profit is the main motivator, you can be sure that little attention is paid to preventing inherited disorders either
- You are saving lives. When you adopt a pet from a shelter you are not only saving the pet you bring home but making room for another animal in that facility or foster program as well. It feels pretty good to save one life but it’s even better when it’s two.
- You are helping your community. When you adopt from your local humane society the fees you pay help to fund all of their programs. Most shelters also provide community education, patrol for strays and lost pets and ensure animals they adopt out are spayed or neutered.
- You will have help finding the right animal for your family. Shelters want their placements to work and they will work hard to help you find the right animal for your home environment. Unlike buying from a pet store, you get to know ahead of time if your dog or cats prefers children or other pets.
- Yes, you can find a purebred animal. A surprising number of purebred dogs and cats can be found at your local humane society. Being a purebred does not make them immune from circumstances that can land them in a shelter.
- Shelters also have puppies and kittens. If you really love having a baby in the house, shelters usually have young animals up for adoption too. They can also be a great place to find your next rabbit, guinea pig or ferret.
10. Your pet may already be spayed or neutered. Because all shelters are concerned about pet overpopulation, your pet will most likely already be altered. If you adopt an animal that is too young most provide vouchers for later spaying and neutering. That’s one less thing for you to worry about.
If you’re loving these pictures, please be sure to click on their photo. They are all adoptable pets from some of our wonderful shelter and rescue organizations. The link will take you directly to the shelter page.
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December 5th, 2011
The practice of keeping birds has been around for centuries. People the world over have brought birds into their homes to enjoy their lovely colors or perhaps, as with canaries, to revel in their beautiful songs or maybe just for companionship. We humans have benefited from birds in many ways. The key as an owner is to make sure our birds benefit as well.
Bird ownership can be quite challenging. Captive birds can suffer from boredom, too little or too much food. Maybe it’s just the wrong foods. They are affected by stress, loneliness, allergies, arthritis, injuries, respiratory problems and more. The list is almost endless. On top of that, birds often mask their illnesses and often, by the time we notice things aren’t right, they are already very sick. New owners quickly learn that caring for a bird is not as easy as it seemed at first glance.
Below is a list of signs indicating that you need to call your veterinarian:
- Your bird has its feathers fluffed most of the time and may be sitting on the cage floor.
- Your bird appears sleepy and uninterested in usual activities.
- Your bird has discharge from the eyes, nostrils or debris stuck to the beak.
- Your usually vocal bird has stopped singing or talking.
- Your bird is not using his legs or wings normally.
- Your bird keeps falling off its perch.
- Your bird is eating less or no food.
- Your bird appears to be bobbing on the perch. This can be a sign of respiratory distress.
- You have noticed a change in the consistency of your birds stool or you see caked feces near the vent.
- You have seen your bird regurgitate food or think you have seen regurgitated food on the bottom of the cage.
- Your bird is picking feathers from its body. This can be a sign of mites but can also be behavioral.
- Your bird has a head tilt..
- The keel bone on your bird’s chest has become more prominent.
- Your bird’s beak has become overgrown.
- Your bird has thickened areas that may or may not be raw on the bottom of its feet.
- Your bird has swelling around the lower leg. This can be a sign of gout.
- Your bird has tremors or even seizures.
- Your bird is bleeding. Birds can damage blood feathers and most are ill equipped to deal with much blood loss.
These are not all inclusive but are some of the main signs of illness require veterinary care.
Tags: animal clinic, animal hospital, bird care, bird doctor, bird ownership, Bird vet, exotic pets, exotic vet, is my bird sick, sick birds, veterinarian, veterinary, veterinary clinic, veterinary hospital
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November 28th, 2011
1) Potpourri: Liquid potpourri can make your home smell festive for the holidays but remember to keep it away from your pets. If the worst happens and your pet swallows liquid potpourri or spills any of it on themselves, you may see some of the following: drooling in case of ingestion, burning of the skin or mouth, weakness and vomiting. If you think any potpourri may be left on your pet’s skin, bathe them ASAP and call your veterinarian.
2) Oh Christmas Tree: As beautiful as Christmas trees are, they can pose considerable danger to your pets. Don’t make this the Christmas you
remember because of the trip to the emergency room. Be sure to secure your tree properly so playful pets don’t topple it and injure themselves.
3) Ornaments: Cats love to play with tinsel but it can be a deadly game. If ingested tinsel can cause a linear foreign body capable of cutting through intestines. Signs may include loss of appetite, lethargy and vomiting. Notify your veterinarian immediately if you think your cat has eaten any tinsel.
Ornament hooks can also be a hazard. They are easily swallowed by pets and can lodge in the stomach or intestines. Even broken ornaments knocked from the tree can cut sensitive paw pads. In general, it is best not place ornaments low on the tree where pets can dislodge them.
4) Electrical Cords: All kinds of pets are susceptible to allure of chewing electrical cords. Once they come into contact with bare wire, they can die suddenly or receive severe burns to the mouth. Signs of electrical burns include drooling, blisters and swelling around the mouth and an unwillingness or inability to eat or drink. This type of injury requires immediate veterinary care.
5) Poinsettias/Mistletoe: Both these plants are commonly used as decorative accents during the Holiday season. Poinsettia can cause local irritation to the mouth, gums and GI tract if ingested. Treat your pet by washing the sap off immediately to stop further irritation. If your pet is vomiting or if their eyes appear inflamed, call your veterinarian It is the berries of the Mistletoe that pose a danger to pets. Depending on the amount ingested, symptoms can range from GI upset and vomiting to drooling, diarrhea, increased urination, and rapid heart rate and respiration. All of these symptoms require immediate veterinary care.
6) Alcohol: Are there still people who think it is funny to feed pets alcohol? Sadly the answer is yes. It really doesn’t matter whether toxicity occurs by accident or intent; it is important to understand that pets can die from alcohol ingestion. Alcohol poisoning is dependent on the amount of
alcohol ingested as compared to an animal’s weight. That means when a small pet gets into an alcoholic beverage, it can cause a significant toxicity problem. According to Becky Lundgren, DVM, “Within 15 to 30 minutes after the pet has drunk the alcohol on an empty stomach (or within 1 to 2 hours on a full stomach); central nervous system signs (such as staggering, excitement, or decreased reflexes) can begin. Behavioral changes can be seen, as can an increased need to urinate. As the problem gets worse, the pet may become depressed, have a slow respiratory rate, or go into cardiac arrest. Puppies and kittens are at particular risk because of their small size and immature organ systems.”
7) Chocolate: Most people are aware that chocolate is bad for pets. We just need to be extra careful to keep it away from them during the holidays. As with most toxicities, problems with chocolate vary depending on the amount of cocoa, the size of the animal and the total amount ingested. 
Again, a small pet that eats dark chocolate can be expected to have a much more severe problem. Signs of toxicity include increased excitability, increased irritability, increased heart rate, restlessness, increased urination, muscle tremors, vomiting and diarrhea. Be sure to call your veterinarian immediately if you think your pet may have ingested chocolate.
8) Grapes/Raisins: Lots of Holiday breads and treats contain raisins or grapes. We love them but accidental ingestion by our pets can cause kidney problems. If you suspect your pet may have ingested either call your veterinarian ASAP.
9) Burning Candles: This hazard doesn’t need a lot of explanation. We all just need to remember to take extra care that candles are safely out of the way of rambunctious pets and children.
10) Overindulgence: As tempting as it may be, please don’t share your holiday bounty with your pets. Too much fatty food can cause a bout of pancreatitis (an inflammation of the pancreas caused by over secretion of the enzymes used to digest food) and land your pet in the emergency room. Signs of pancreatitis include: vomiting, no or decreased appetite, an
abdomen that is painful to the touch and/or a hunched appearance, fever, diarrhea, lethargy /depression, and dehydration. Pancreatitis can be life threatening and requires immediate veterinary care.
So, please enjoy the holidays but remember keep a watchful eye on your pet as well.
ASPCA Poison Control: 888-426-4435
http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control
Tags: animal care, animal hospital, cat care, cat Vet, dog care, dog health, dog vet, exotic pets, exotic vet, feline care, ferrets, hamsters, Holiday Hazards, kittens, pet care, puppies, rabbits, small mammals, sugar gliders, veterinarian, veterinary care, veterinary clinic, veterinary hospital
Posted in Holiday hazards, Pet Education, Uncategorized, veterinarian | 1 Comment »
November 21st, 2011
Dear Doctor Rob:
Why is there so much difference from clinic to clinic when it comes to dental procedures? I want to do the best thing for my pet but frankly, I am confused. Could you please help me understand what is involved in a dental procedure?
Confused Pet Owner
Dear confused:
Making comparisons about any procedure at a veterinary clinic (or for that matter at a dentist office, with a plumber, mechanic, lawyer, etc.) can be a bit tricky. Are apples being compared with apples? Any other way is just not fair.
A dental cleaning means different things to different people and there is a huge difference between removing tartar from the crown of the tooth and a complete oral exam with cleaning, polishing, charting and oral surgery if needed.
As much as we promote dental home care to prevent disease, the fact is that most of what we do is not a simple cleaning. Most patients have dental disease that needs to be addressed, safely, under anesthesia, while on IV fluids, with monitoring. Sometimes this also includes dental x-rays, deeper pocket cleaning and even oral surgery.
So questions need to be asked. Do these estimates or procedures include:
Does your veterinarian provide pre-surgical bloodwork to evaluate liver and kidney function? That is the only way to tailor anesthesia to your pet’s health requirements. Will there be intravenous fluids to support blood pressure and help blood flow to the kidneys and other organs? Will your pet be under general anesthesia with intubation to provide a secure source of oxygen and to protect the airway from aspiration of water and bacteria ? Does the veterinarian have trained staff monitoring your pet while he or she under anesthesia? Are pain medications provided before the procedure? Do they use local nerve blocks to protect your pet from pain during the procedure? This would be similar to the lidocaine you receive at your dentist. Does the practice provide pain medications if required after the procedure? Do they scale above and below the gumline or just clean what you can see? What type of scaling do they use? Is it hand scaling or ultrasonic ? Do they make certain to polish your pet’s teeth after scaling? If not, they are simply providing a new surface for tartar to attach to the teeth. Do they probe the gumline for pockets and then chart their findings? 
If they find a potential problem do they have the ability to do digital dental x-rays? Do they have the tools and training to perform safe surgical extractions, if needed? That includes closure of the surgery (extraction) sites. Does your pet receive antibiotics before and after the procedure if needed? Will there be detailed home care recommendations and recheck exams? Are extractions recommended appropriately or only when teeth are just about to fall out on their own? Are root planing and subgingival curettage offered? Is there a licensed veterinary technician assisting the veterinarian? Has the veterinarian and staff received continuing education from a board certified veterinary dentist?
If the answers to all of these questions are the same, then fair statements can be made. We are proud of the services we offer and the job that we do. There are no standards mandated in veterinary medicine that every clinic must abide by, therefore no two clinics are the same. This is part of the reason we follow American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) standards and are AAHA certified.
I hope this has helped make things a little less confusing for you. If you still have questions, feel free to call the clinic or visit our website at www.animalfamilyveterinarycare.com
Tags: animal care, animal hospital, animal nutrition, animal therapy, bad breath in cats, bad breath in dogs, cat care, cat dentist, cat Vet, dog care, dog dentist, dog health, dog teeth, dog vet, pet care, pet health, puppies, veterinarian, veterinary, veterinary clinic, veterinary hospital
Posted in Pet Health, pet dentist, veterinarian | 5 Comments »
October 20th, 2011
Ask any bird owner and they will probably tell you that the most serious bird behavior problem is biting. This is especially true with the larger birds whose strong jaw and hooked bills can inflict considerable damage and pain. Most biting behaviors can be classified as fear, aggression, territorial, conditioned or mate related.
Fear Biters:
When most birds were wild caught, fear biting was a bigger problem. Today, most birds are raised in captivity. However, birds that have been raised with little human interaction in captivity will still have fear problems. Finally, even birds that are hand reared and more acclimated to human beings can still develop fear related behaviors. Some, such as African Greys, seem to be naturally more cautious and fearful around humans.
Fear biters can be recognized by their attachment to the cage. They are unwilling to leave that safe environment and when approached, may run away from or scoot past your hand. They get very stressed when handled and may squawk, fight, and even pant. Excessive wing trims and the inevitable clumsiness and falls that accompany them are a good way to create a fear biter. Careful trims and lots of treats and patient handling can sometimes help a fear biter become more social.
Conditioned Biters:
Birds are highly intelligent and will learn to manipulate their owner quickly. An owner who withdraws their hand the first time a bird offers to bite will condition the animal to bite to get their way. Not surprisingly, the bigger
the bird, the more common the problem seems to be. As with many other species of animals, if you don’t appear to be in control, birds will be more than happy to take over.
Conditioned biters need to have their wings trimmed both figuratively and literally. In addition, they should never be allowed to ride on the owners shoulder. One way to prevent this behavior is to place a towel on the shoulder and use that to safely remove the bird if needed. If you are too afraid to offer a hand, than gloves or a perch should be used to practice step up without biting. Do not hit the bird on the beak. Instead, redirect biting behavior by giving another command which can be rewarded when obeyed. If the owner is unable to establish control, the bird may have to be rehomed.
Territorial Biters:
These are the birds that defend their cage by biting. Territorial aggression should occur only when the bird is in or on the cage. Consistent training and handling are an important step in curing this type of biting. More time spent with the owner and less time in the cage will help as well. Use of a separate cage for night time sleeping and daytime play can also be helpful.
Bonded Biters:
Many birds bond closely with one person in the family. They may consider this person to be their mate and behave aggressively if they feel other family members are competing for “their” person. Again, training and consistent handling by all family members will help to decrease bond related biting. Unpleasant jobs should be done by the favorite and treats doled out by others. Again, these birds should be kept off the shoulder. Play is good but too much cuddling can be misinterpreted.
Grumpy Biters:
Just like us, birds need to get a good night’s rest. A bird kept up late watching television, could turn into a tired, grumpy biter. Birds need to have at least 10 hours a day in a dark, quiet room. Owners need to keep that in mind when deciding where to place their bird’s cage.
Remember, if the biting is extreme, use gloves, perches or towels. Also, changing established negative behaviors requires plenty of time, patience, confidence and consistency on the part of the handler. In the worst cases, where the owner is unable to establish a safe relationship, a new home may be the best choice for everyone.
Tags: animal care, animal clinic, animal hospital, avian behavior, avian care, avian vet, birds, biting birds, exotic pets, exotic vet, pet adoption, pet care, veterinarian, veterinary, veterinary care, veterinary clinic, veterinary hospital
Posted in Exotic Vet, Pet Education, Uncategorized | 1 Comment »
October 3rd, 2011
The thyroid is the largest of the endocrine glands. It is shield shaped and located in the neck near the larynx or voice box. The thyroid’s job is to secrete the hormones which regulate growth and metabolism. It also acts as a storehouse for iodine. So when there is a problem with the thyroid gland we will often see significant changes throughout the body systems.
Hypothyroidism is caused by a decrease in the hormones produced by the thyroid gland. Hypothyroidism is seen in middle aged dogs, generally 7 years of age or older. It is very rare in cats. It is occurs most often in larger breeds but we see hypothyroid problems in all sizes and breeds of dogs. Thyroid dysfunction in dogs is generally caused by damage or atrophy of the gland itself. It is rare to see hypothyroidism caused by cancer.
Signs:
Our typical thyroid patient is overweight, with thinning hair, dark pigmented, dry skin and a brittle hair coat. Hair loss on the trunk of the pet’s body is frequently seen. Owner’s may mention that their pet has become less active and lost muscle tone There may also be an increase in ear
infections or the sudden onset of seizures.
Diagnosis and Tests:
Hypothyroidism is trickier to diagnose because other problems can look very similar. Cushing’s disease, Diabetes and other endocrine related dysfunction can present with many similar symptoms. That is why laboratory tests are crucial when diagnosing and treating thyroid dysfunction. Complete blood count and serum chemistries help us to rule out other causes and point us in the right direction if the thyroid is involved. Specific tests, such as Free T4 and TSH stimulation tests, target the thyroid hormone levels and provide a definitive diagnosis. Periodic monitoring of blood thyroid levels will be needed over the lifetime of the pet to make certain therapeutic levels are maintained.
Treatment:
Once it occurs, Hypothyroidism requires lifelong supplementation to keep hormone levels normal. The good news is that supplementation is easy, relatively inexpensive and quite successful in managing the disease. Most of signs will lessen or disappear over time once treatment begins. Some medications such as steroids, sulfonamides and Phenobarbital can interfere with thyroid levels so it is important to always make certain that everyone involved with the treatment of your pet knows what medications they are taking.
We hope this will help you recognize the signs of thyroid dysfunction in your dog. At Animal Family, we try to help by including a screen for Thyroid disease in our Senior Wellness Blood test. It is our hope that through early detection and treatment we can help to improve the quality of life for your pet.
Tags: animal care, animal hospital, animal nutrition, animal therapy, dog care, dog health, dog vet, hypothyroid disease in dogs, Hypothyroid treatment for pets, hypothyroisim in dogs, pet care, pet health, pet therapy, veterinary, veterinary care, veterinary clinic, veterinary hospital
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Remember, a turtle that is fed properly will never develop this problem. Shell rot is another health issue with turtles. It is caused when bacteria gets between the shell layers either because of damage to the shell or wet, unsanitary conditions. Turtles can also have internal parasites just like other pets so be sure to have a stool check. Upper respiratory infections are also common. They may present with nasal discharge, puffy eyes or both. With severe respiratory distress a turtle may extend its neck and gape. Obviously any respiratory problems require a visit to the vet as well as a close look at your husbandry. Finally, wounds can occur on the face and legs of your turtle. If these become infected they will require a trip to the Vet. 
