Posts in Category: veterinary medicine
Oh wow! Anesthesia can be so scary! How do you know your pet is going to be ok? Will they wake up? How does a pet owner make certain their pet is receiving the safest surgical care possible?
What you should look for:
- Take a tour of the facility. Check out the surgical suites. Do they have up to date anesthetic machines, monitoring and warming equipment?
- Do they stress the importance of pre-surgical bloodwork? Pre-anesthetic testing is what determines if your pet has health problems that would make anesthesia unsafe or if they require special anesthetic drug protocols.
- What type of anesthesia is used? There is a huge difference between cheap injectable first generation anesthetics and the newer generation of drugs and inhalants that can be specifically tailored to an individual animal’s needs.
- What kind of staff do they employ? Are the surgical staff highly trained Veterinary Technicians or poorly paid lay persons who learn their trade on the job and with your pet? The best equipment in the world is no good if there is no one who understands what the readings mean.
- Do they have complete monitoring systems in place? This should include heart rate, blood pressure, carbon dioxide levels, oxygen levels, respiration, body temperature.
- Do they employ intravenous catheters, IV fluids and endotracheal tubes needed to control blood pressure, oxygen and anesthetic delivery? Or do they use an injectable anesthetic and hope for the best?
- Do they keep their staff up to date through continuing education? Technology is improving and changing all the time. Make sure the clinic you use keeps their staff current and well trained.
- Is it clean? Does the clinic smell clean? Believe it or not there are clinics that will use the same surgical pack on more than one animal. Are all the instruments, including those used in dentistry sterilized after each procedure?
- Is there a good pain management protocol in place? Or will your pet lay in a kennel with no relief once surgery is complete.
What you can do to make anesthesia safer for your pet:
- Make certain that your veterinarian is aware of all medications, supplements and over the counter drugs your pet is receiving. Then follow their instructions about how and what to administer before anesthesia.
- Don’t feed your pet if your veterinarian tells you not to. Ignoring this can cause vomiting and aspiration pneumonia. Conversely, if you have an exotic pet, feed them if you are instructed to do so. They have different requirements than dogs and cats.
- Tell your veterinarian if your pet has ever had any reaction to any type of medication. If your pet has a seizure disorder or is diabetic, please make sure to share this information. This is especially important if you are new to the practice.
- Don’t let your pet become overweight. It makes anesthesia much less safe.
- Make sure your pet stays healthy by staying up to date on all routine health care.
- Don’t wait too long to spay or neuter. Large, overweight females that have been through several heat cycles are every veterinarians least favorite surgical patient. Everything is bigger, with more surrounding fat, more friable, harder to ligate and more prone to bleeding.
- If you’re not sure, ask questions. We don’t mind.
We have a variety of educational pets at Animal Family Veterinary Care Center. Miracle, our turtle was hatched in 1999. That makes her young by Box Turtle standards. They can live up to 75 years or more. It may surprise you to learn that turtles have very distinct personalities. Miracle is very social and loves interacting with people. Even though Miracle is quite social, many box turtles are not. Fortunately, Box turtles rarely bite and then it’s only when they mistake a finger for food.
Box turtles get their name from the hinged portion of their shell. It allows them to pull their legs and head into their shell and close the doors. This is how they try to protect themselves from predators. Unfortunately, it’s not fool proof. Crafty birds have learned to drop the turtles from on high to break shells and dogs and raccoons can chew through them.
Box turtles are terrestrial or land based. That means they spend the bulk of their time on dry land but are usually never too far from a pond. Pet turtles like a swimming area too. Unfortunately they aren’t very good at keeping their water clean so it will require daily changing.
Box turtles enjoy a variety of food. To stay healthy they need a mix of meat, fruits and veggies. Our Miracle is quite fond of earthworms. She also likes dog food and meal worms. We mix in a large variety of greens and fruits as well. You can buy a commercial turtle food but it should never be the sole source of any turtle’s diet.
Miracle’s home is a glass terrarium that is appointed with rocks, water and cob bedding. Bark or alfalfa pellets may also be used. Never use sand or cat litter. A minimum size of 36” X 12” is recommended.
Heating is a very important part of maintaining a pet turtle’s health. The ideal is around 85 to 88 degrees F. Place a heat lamp in one area of the enclosure so your turtle is able to get away from the heat source when they want. Too much heat can be just as deadly as not enough. Floor heaters and heat rocks are also available but make certain to use them properly.
Turtles can develop a variety of health problems Beaks and nails can become overgrown due to lack of foraging and other activities which would wear them down naturally in the wild. Metabolic bone disease and soft shells can develop from either under feeding or a lack of variety in diet. Remember, a turtle that is fed properly will never develop this problem. Shell rot is another health issue with turtles. It is caused when bacteria gets between the shell layers either because of damage to the shell or wet, unsanitary conditions. Turtles can also have internal parasites just like other pets so be sure to have a stool check. Upper respiratory infections are also common. They may present with nasal discharge, puffy eyes or both. With severe respiratory distress a turtle may extend its neck and gape. Obviously any respiratory problems require a visit to the vet as well as a close look at your husbandry. Finally, wounds can occur on the face and legs of your turtle. If these become infected they will require a trip to the Vet.
Do turtles carry salmonella? Yes, some do but not all. Either way, you can greatly minimize your risk by following CDC guidelines.
- The kitchen sink is for people. Don’t wash turtle dishes or turtles in it.
- Clean and disinfect your turtles enclosure regularly
- Wash your hands after handling your pet
- No kissing turtles or touching them to your face.
- Quarantine any new turtles for 6 weeks
- and, yes, you can have your vet test to see if your turtle is carrying salmonella.
Please visit the CDC site for more complete guidelines.
Hopefully this has wetted your appetite to learn more about turtles. Remember if you have any more questions, call us or check out our website.
Chances are, if you’ve had a few pets in your lifetime you have probably heard about the thyroid gland at least once. You may have even had a pet or someone you know that required treatment for thyroid problems.
The thyroid is the largest of the endocrine glands. It is shield shaped and located in the neck near the larynx or voice box. The thyroid’s job is to secrete hormones which regulate growth and metabolism. It also acts as a storehouse for iodine. So when there is a problem with the thyroid gland we will often see significant changes throughout the body systems.
Cats are our most common hyperthyroid patient. We rarely ever see this problem in dogs. As they age some cats, typically 6 years of age or older, will develop benign nodules on the thyroid which cause over secretion of thyroid hormones. Hyperthyroidism caused from a cancerous growth is very rare in cats
When we see hyperthyroid cats in practice our owners will generally tell us that their pet is losing weight in spite of a ravenous appetite. Some cats may also be experiencing vomiting and diarrhea. Many will have concurrent signs of kidney disease and/or failure. Our typical hyperthyroid cat is thin, a bit cranky, a little unkempt and drinking and urinating more than normal. When we listen to their heart we frequently note a rapid heart rate and possibly a murmur. A blood pressure check often shows that the cat is hypertensive. If we palpate the pet’s neck we may feel an enlargement of the thyroid gland.
Laboratory tests are necessary to diagnose hyperthyroidism. We need to be especially careful to check for any kidney and heart disease as well, since those problems often occur along with thyroid dysfunction. Blood chemistry and urinalysis will help us detect signs of kidney disease. Another blood test looks for a high T4 concentration. Increased levels of this hormone are responsible for most of the troublesome signs we see. There are additional even more sensitive tests that are available if needed. We may also suggest radiographs (X-Rays) and an ECG if heart disease is a concern
Hyperthyroidism is generally treated in one of three ways.
- Anti-thyroid drugs: Methimazole is the most common drug prescribed for hyperthyroidism. It can be given orally or applied directly to the skin in a transdermal preparation. Methimazole works by decreasing the amount of hormone produced. It does not cure the underlying disease and must be given for the rest of your cat’s life. Other drugs may be prescribed if there is concurrent heart disease.
- Radioiodine therapy is used to destroy thyroid tissue and is considered the gold standard of treatment. It is safe for the pet but is not as readily available and does require in-patient treatment. However, most universities are able to perform radioiodine treatment.
- Thyroidectomy or removal of the thyroid gland itself is another effective treatment. This method requires hospitalization as well.
All of the treatments discussed will require some level of follow up.
Hopefully this will aid you in recognizing hyperthyroid problems in your cat earlier should the disease develop.
Next week we will discuss Hypothyroid disease.
According to the ASPCA, “approximately 5 million to 7 million companion animals enter animal shelters nationwide every year, and approximately 3 million to 4 million are euthanized (60 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats). Shelter intakes are about evenly divided between those animals relinquished by owners and those picked up by animal control. These are national estimates; the percentage of euthanasia may vary from state to state.”
That is a really sad statistic. We work closely with many of our local shelters at Animal Family and are always surprised at the quality of the pets we see. These animals are neither worthless nor dangerous. In fact, often the opposite is true. Many are pure bred and almost all are loving, healthy animals who through no fault of their own end up homeless.
The 10 most common reasons owners give when surrendering a pet at the Humane Society of Scott County are:
- The owner is moving and is not able to take their pet with them
- The pet is too active for the owner to handle.
- The owner does not have enough time to devote to pet care
- The owner has encountered problems with housebreaking
- The animal is too expensive to care for.
- The animal is too young, too old or has developed health issues.
- The owner or a family member is allergic to the pet.
- The pet does not get along with another animal in the household.
- The pet belonged to a child who no longer lives in the home.
- The pet has become pregnant
Do you see a common thread among many of the reasons for pet relinquishment listed above? How many of these problems could be avoided by a little research and planning before acquiring a pet. For all the information on specific breeds that is available, it seems that people still jump into pet ownership on impulse.
So, please, before you bring a pet into your life, do your research. Think about your lifestyle, future plans, and overall health. How busy are you? Can you even afford a pet at this time? Do you have the time or interest for training, walks and general health and coat care. Don’t pick your pet based on looks. Don’t assume you have to have a puppy and never, ever give a pet as a gift without a thorough discussion with the prospective new owner first.
Next week, we will go over what you need to think about before you add a new pet to your family.
According to the AVMA, in 2007 there were 72 million pet dogs, 82 million pet cats and over 4 million pet birds. At least 3% of the US households own a reptile. Almost one half of those pet owners consider their pets to be a member of the family. We are a pet loving country. That’s the good news.
The bad news is that we can share more than love with our pets. Did you know that according to the Center for Disease Control that almost 14% of the US population has been infected with Toxacara (roundworm of dogs and cats). That’s because up to 30% of dogs fewer than 6 months of age and 25% of all cats are infected with roundworms.
Cats and dogs can carry Roundworms, Tapeworms, Hookworms, Leptospirosis, Ringworm and Rabies to name a few. Pocket pets and reptiles can carry Salmonella. Birds can also carry Salmonella as well as Psittacosis (a bacterial disease).
Who is most at risk? According to our friends at CAPC (Companion Animal Parasite Council), it is generally those who come in contact with the soil the most often. That includes, gardeners, plumbers, sunbathers and of course children. Immune compromised individuals need to be particularly careful.
So should we get rid of all of our pets? No need to get so carried away. Following are some relatively simple measures you can take to control the risk of zoonotic transmission in your family.
- Wash your hands after handling pets, soil and feces. Be especially vigilant with youngsters.
- Don’t eat or smoke while you handle your pet. Especially if it is a reptile, bird or pocket pet.
- Pets and food preparation do not go together.
- Keep your pets on a regular schedule of deworming. Dogs and cats should be on broad spectrum, year round anti-parasitic products.
- Get annual fecal parasite checks. That’s because you may give your pet his preventative but he may either spit it out or throw it up later on.
- Treat pets and their surroundings for fleas.
- Dispose of pet feces on a daily basis.
- Cover up your children’s sandbox when it’s not in use.
- Feed only cooked, canned or dry dog and cat food.
- Don’t allow birds or reptiles to roam loose in the house.
- If you are scratched by your pet, wash the area thoroughly.
- Vaccinate. Yes, there is some risk (1/10,000) of soft tissue sarcomas in cats with the use of Rabies and Feline Leukemia vaccines. We try to make it safer by vaccinating every 3 years. However, our biggest concern is that Rabies is out there and it kills all of us all the time.
- Immune compromised individuals should not own reptiles or amphibians.
- Don’t let your dog or cat drink from the toilet bowl. According to CAPC this can spread human adapted strains of parasites to pets
All dogs can bite. We like to think that we can avoid any difficulties with our pets by simply choosing the “right” breed; not so. Although you may not actually cause behavior problems in your pet, you can unknowingly reward them. Since we know that it is always easier to prevent rather than change an established behavior: developing ways to make your pet a good family member and citizen should be an important part of pet ownership.
Biting is not the only thing we complain about. Barking, jumping up, digging, house soiling, chewing on inappropriate items, food aggression and fear of strangers are just some of the things we don’t like. Can these behaviors be prevented? Of course they can. Sometimes it is simply a matter of management. Others require an active effort on your part to train and socialize your pet. Here are some ideas for keeping making your pet a good citizen.
- Teach your dog to sit. This should be the first thing a puppy learns. Any pup old enough to go to a new home is capable of learning to sit. It’s OK to teach the command by using a treat. The ASPCA has a great site that will show you how to teach a sit. The importance of this command in your relationship with your pet is that sitting quietly is a prerequisite before any kind of interaction with you. That means that you don’t unthinkingly pet your dog should they bump or rub against your hand. Believe it or not if you are consistent about requiring a quiet sit first and socializing second, it will set a solid base from which to build your relationship with your new dog.
- Better yet, try an obedience class. There are very few dogs that won’t benefit from obedience training. It doesn’t have to be a competitive obedience class and it doesn’t have to involve harsh methods. Look for something that will help you with basic commands and routine maintenance such as nail trimming, tooth brushing and socialization with other pets and people. The key is to establish good communication with your pet from the beginning.
- Get your pet out in the world. You can’t expect your dog to comfortable in the world if they never get beyond your backyard. Once your pet is properly immunized, wormed and protected from fleas, get them out to parks, for car rides and long walks. If your schedule is extra busy, consider putting them in doggie daycare but please don’t just lock them in the backyard.
- Spay or neuter your pet. This can’t be said often enough. The reasons for keeping a dog intact are very few indeed. Hormones will always get in the way of training. Worse, they can cause dog to dog aggression and lead to health problems later in life.
- Children and dogs should always be supervised. Obviously this is not only important for the safety of the child but for the pet as well. Children can’t read animal body language. They are often at eye level with a pet and may be seen as lower in social ranking than adults. Children need to be taught to how handle their pet gently yet assertively. Even when pet and child are both trained, they never be left alone together.
- Take your pet to the vet for something other than vaccines. If you happen to be driving by the vet’s office, stop in. Bring the dog inside for some treats. Let the staff pet them and then go home. You will be surprised how much more relaxed your pet will be if you do this a few times.
- If you run into a problem you can’t handle, call a professional. There is nothing wrong with asking someone more experienced to help you with your pet. The key is to go for help before a problem gets out of hand.
This is only meant to get you started thinking in the right direction. Talk to your veterinarian about trainers in your area if you’re unsure where to go. Just remember to have fun and always keep your pet social.
Who hates fleas? Everybody hates fleas! Ctenocephalides canis or felis better known as the common flea is not a visitor anyone ever welcomes to their home. For those of us who have had to deal with a flea infestation- once is definitely enough! Aside from the obvious “yuck” factor, there are a lot of good reasons to avoid this hopping, biting scourge of the insect world.
- Fleas make their living by biting other animals and feeding on their blood. When fleas bite they inject saliva into the skin of their host which can cause inflammation, itching, allergic dermatitis and hair loss. Even worse, if the host is small enough or the number of fleas’ large enough, anemia can result from blood loss.
- Fleas don’t just bite your pet. They bite you. They bite your children. Everybody gets itchy.
- A single female flea can lay up to 50 eggs each day and up to 2000 eggs in her short life time!!! Of course by the time you discover that your pet has fleas, there are most likely eggs and larva throughout your home.
- Fleas act as a transport vehicle for the aptly named “Flea” tapeworm. Pets ingest fleas as they groom. Once the flea is in the digestive system, the larva breaks free and finds a home in your pet’s intestines. An adult tapeworm can grow up to 75 cm (29.5 inches). According to CPAC (Companion Animal Parasite Council), “Infections of children with D. caninum following ingestion of an infected flea are occasionally reported. The disease induced in the child is generally mild, confined to the intestinal tract, and readily treated, but can still be distressing to the family.”
- Fleas carry the Plague – the Bubonic Plague. This is particularly important in the Rocky Mountain States.
- Fleas carry Typhus and yes it can be transmitted to humans. According to Pubmed Health, “Typhus is caused by one of two types of bacteria: Rickettsia typhi or Rickettsia prowazekii.” The form of typhus depends on which type of bacteria causes the infection. Murine typhus occurs in the southeastern and southern United States, often during the summer and fall. It is rarely deadly. Risk factors for murine typhus include:
- Exposure to rat fleas or feces
- Exposure to other animals such as cats, opossums, raccoons, skunks and rats
- Fleas can help to transmit “Cat Scratch” disease from one cat to another. We humans get Cat Scratch Fever when we are scratched by an infected feline.
- Fleas can transmit Mycoplasma haemofelis a blood borne parasite that can cause damage to the red calls which results in anemia in your pet.
- Even if your pet never goes outdoors, you can carry fleas into the house on your pants legs. Fleas can survive the winter just fine as long as you continue to heat your home.
- Once there is an established flea infestation, it can be time consuming and expensive to resolve. Like so many other problems fleas are much easier to prevent than alleviate.
I don’t know about you but I’m going to go make sure my dog is up to date on his flea prevention.
The decrease in feline veterinary visits has us worried. We love our cats but do not provide them with the same level of care that we do our dogs. It’s true that cats are great at masking illness. However, by putting off a veterinary visit until your cat is seriously ill, we only make for greater expense for us and stress for our pet. We all need to learn how to better recognise the signs of illness in cats, so this week we have decided to reprint a great article from Pet Docs on Call covering just this subject.
By Dr. Jen Mathis, Certified Veterinary Journalist and member of the Veterinary News Network received veterinary care in the past year.hadn’t”There are 82 million pet cats in the U.S., compared with 72 million dogs, making cats the most popular pet. Yet studies show the number of feline veterinary visits is declining steadily each year. A 2007 industry survey revealed that compared with dogs, almost three times as many cats
Though there are many myths about cat health, the truth is, cats need regular veterinary care, including annual exams and vaccinations, just like dogs do. More importantly, because they are naturally adept at hiding signs of illness, annual exams can result in early diagnosis of health problems. Early diagnosis often results in longer quality life at less cost.
Boehringer Ingelheim is trying to help cat health by teaching about the 10 subtle signs of sickness in cats:
1. INAPPROPRIATE URINATION – At least 80% of the time this is a medical problem often associated with conditions ranging from kidney disease to arthritis. Behavior is the least likely cause.
3. CHANGES IN ACTIVITY – Medical conditions such as arthritis can produce a decrease in activity while an increase can signal a condition such as hyperthyroidism.
4. CHANGES IN SLEEPING HABITS – While cats sleep 16 to 18 hours a day, they usually should be quick to respond to someone walking into a room. Difficulty lying or rising is also a problem.
5. CHANGES IN FOOD AND WATER CONSUMPTION – Eating or drinking more or less can be signs of a range of underlying medical conditions.
7. CHANGES IN GROOMING – A poor hair coat is a common sign of many medical conditions in cats.
8. SIGNS OF STRESS – Sudden lifestyle changes can cause stress in cats, resulting in symptoms such as decreased grooming to eating more frequently. These are also signs of illness, so sickness should be ruled out before stress issues are addressed.
9. CHANGES IN VOCALIZATION – An increase in crying or howling is common with older cats and can be caused by high blood pressure (leading cause of blindness), kidney problems, thyroid issues, stress or pain.
10. BAD BREATH– 70 percent of cats have gum disease as early as age 3. Pets are not supposed to have bad breath as it usually means infection. Since 2/3 of the tooth is under the gum-line, many cats have problems that can’t be seen without x rays. Dental problems cause kidney problems.
“Have we seen your cat lately?” If not, an exam may be just what your cat needs to help live a longer quality life! For more information, please check with your veterinarian!”
Have We Seen Your Cat Lately?
We love our cats in the United States. Unfortunately that doesn’t always translate into appropriate veterinary care. Yes there are plenty of owners who do everything for their cats – exams, vaccines, spay/neuter and dental care – whatever they need. However they may not be in the majority. Too many neglect health issues until their cat becomes seriously ill.
One scenario may be for a feline patient to come in for kitten vaccines, spay or neuter surgery and then not be seen again until they are sick. Other owners will keep up on rabies vaccines but little else. Too many of us don’t provide our cats with the same level of care that we do their canine counterparts.
Cats can be difficult to transport. They don’t like their carriers. They don’t like the clinic. Then again, many think because their cat is indoors, no vaccines are required. We tell ourselves cats are hardy survivors. They don’t need as much veterinary care.
Wrong. Cats need all the same care that other animals do. According to Scott Bernick at Animal Family, “This has been a disturbing trend in veterinary medicine. Unfortunately we are seeing more cats come in with severe illness, leaving the owners with fewer options and increased expenses.”
Cats need to be vaccinated just as much as other pets. Core vaccines are those recommended for all cats. These are diseases that are commonly found in the environment. That means there is a realistic risk of exposure, infection and development of a disease. This is particularly the case with kittens. In the case of Rabies, it is mandated by law for the protection of public as well as animal health.
- Feline Panleukopenia: All kittens should receive this vaccine as early as 6 weeks and then at 3-4 week intervals until 16 weeks of age. All kittens should receive a 1 year booster. Non vaccinated adults should receive 2 doses 3-4 weeks apart. Annual vaccination is not recommended in all adult cats. At Animal Family we vaccinate every 2 years.
- Feline Rhinotracheitis: All kittens should receive this vaccine as early as 6 weeks of age and then in 3-4 week intervals until 16 weeks of age. All kittens should receive a 1 year booster. Non vaccinated adults should receive 2 doses 3- weeks apart. Annual vaccination is not recommended in all adult cats. At Animal Family we vaccinate every 2 years
- Feline Calicivirus: All kittens should receive this vaccine as early as 6 weeks of age and then in 3-4 week intervals until 16 weeks of age. All kittens should receive a 1 year booster. Non vaccinated adults should receive 2 doses 3-4 weeks apart. Annual vaccination is not recommended in adult cats. At Animal Family we vaccinate every 2 years
- Rabies: State statutes determine how often Rabies vaccines are administered. In Iowa a single dose is required as early as 12 weeks of age. All kittens should receive a 1 year booster. Non vaccinated adults receive 1 vaccine and a booster 12 months later. Thereafter adults can receive Rabies vaccination in 3 year intervals provided it is given on schedule. Otherwise another 1 year booster will be required.
The following vaccines are considered noncore:
- Feline Leukemia: Feline Leukemia testing and vaccination is strongly recommended for all kittens and for individuals whose health is compromised. Kittens test negative for the virus prior to vaccination. Two doses are administered as early as 8 weeks of age and 3-4 weeks later. Only cats that are at risk (such as those who go outdoors) should be vaccinated at yearly intervals thereafter.
- Feline Immunodeficiency Virus: This vaccine is only recommended for only for cats with high risk of exposure. Because the vaccination itself can cause a positive result on antibody testing, there is some controversy surrounding its use
- FIP: Generally not recommended due to concern about whether the vaccine is effective or not.
- Feline Chlamydophila and Bordatella are only recommended when the diseases are present in multi-cat environments.
We are participating in a nationwide National awareness program aimed at reminding people of the importance of regular veterinary care for their cats. During the months of April, May and June Animal Family will provide dental exams, weight checks and body assessment scores free of charge. It would be a great time to update vaccines and get a wellness check up for your cat as well.
Vaccinations are one of the most common procedures a pet receives at the veterinarian’s office Vaccines help enhance your pet’s immune response as a way to prevent infectious disease. Most species including humans receive vaccines at some point in their life.
We begin the process in young animals as maternal antibodies (received in the womb and while nursing) decrease. Once an animal becomes an adult, vaccinations are continued at regular intervals based on manufacturer’s recommendations and those of agencies such as the AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association) and AHHA (American Animal Hospital Association) and AAFP (American Association of Feline Practitioners). Your vet may increase frequency or even discontinue specific vaccines on a given animal if there is concern regarding immune response.
Vaccines are divided into two groups – either core or noncore. Core vaccines are recommended for every animal of a given species. An example of a core vaccine would be Parvovirus. It is endemic to the United States and can cause death or severe illness in affected dogs.
Noncore vaccines are recommended for those individuals who are at risk for exposure to certain infectious agents. An example would be recommending Lyme vaccine for a pet that has had tick (which are known to transmit Lyme disease) infestation in the past or frequents areas that are known tick habitats.
AAHA vaccine guidelines consider the following vaccines core:
- Canine Parvovirus: All puppies should receive 3 doses between the ages of 6 to 16 weeks administered 3 – 4 weeks apart. All puppies should also receive a one year booster. Unvaccinated adults require 2 doses at 3 – 4 week intervals. Annual vaccination is not recommended in adults. This is why we use a 2 year vaccination interval at Animal Family.
- Canine Distemper Virus: All puppies should receive 3 doses between the ages of 6 to 16 weeks administered 3 – 4 weeks apart. All puppies should also receive a one year booster. Unvaccinated adults require 2 doses at 3 – 4 weeks apart. . Annual vaccination is not recommended in adults this is why we use a 2 year vaccination interval at Animal Family.
- Canine Adenovirus (Hepatitis): All puppies should receive 3 doses between the ages of 6 to 16 weeks administered 3 – 4 weeks apart. All puppies should receive a one year booster. Unvaccinated adults require 2 doses at 3 – 4 weeks apart. Annual vaccination is not recommended in adults. This is why we use a 2 year vaccination interval at Animal Family.
- Rabies: State statutes dictate rabies vaccine protocols. In Iowa, puppies should receive one dose as early as 4 months. All puppies receive a 1 year booster. Thereafter a dog may go to 3 year vaccination intervals. Unvaccinated adults receive a single dose, a booster at 1 year and boosters every 3 years thereafter. Boosters must be done close to the original administration date or the animal will require a 1 year booster.
AAHA vaccine guidelines consider the following vaccines as non-core:
- Parainfluenza: All puppies should receive 3 doses between the ages of 6 to 16 weeks administered 3 – 4 weeks apart. All puppies should receive a one year booster. Unvaccinated adults require a single dose.
- Bordatella (Kennel Cough): Both puppies and unvaccinated adults should receive 2 doses 3 – 4 weeks apart. Thereafter annual boosters are recommended for high-risk animals. We consider this to be a core vaccine at Animal Family because all dogs have exposure to other canines
- Borrelia burgdorferi (Lyme disease): Puppies should receive 2 doses. The first at 9 – 12 weeks and the second 3 – 4 weeks later. Unvaccinated adults should receive 2 doses at 3 – 4 week intervals. Annual boosters are recommended thereafter. Vaccination is recommended for those animals who live in or visit areas where exposure to tick vectors is high or animals who live in an area where the disease is considered to be endemic.
- Canine Coronavirus: AAHA does not recommend this vaccine since clinical cases rarely occur.
- Leptospira: Puppies should receive 2 doses between the ages of 12 to 16 weeks administered 3 – 4 weeks apart. All puppies should receive a one year booster. Unvaccinated adults should receive 2 doses 3 – 4 weeks apart. Annual vaccinations are recommended thereafter. We consider Leptospira a core vaccine at Animal Family because we see clinical cases every year.
This covers the vaccines recommended for dogs. Next week we will cover feline vaccination recommendations.