Posts Tagged: dog training
In honor of all the military related festivities in the month of November, like the USMC 238th Birthday and Veteran’s Day, I felt it only appropriate to discuss some of the unique ways animals have also helped to preserve our nation’s freedom. We are all familiar with many a battle on horseback in our nation’s history, but did you know horses and canines are not the only animals who help our brave men and women? Listed below are some of their unique roles today.
Dolphins have been serving in the U.S. Navy for more than 40 years as part of the Navy’s Marine Mammal Program, and they were used during the Vietnam War and Operation Iraqi Freedom. These highly intelligent animals are trained to detect, locate and mark mines — not to mention suspicious swimmers and divers.
What happens if a dolphin finds an intruder? The dolphin touches a sensor on a boat to alert its handler, and the handler then places a strobe light or noisemaker on the dolphin’s nose. The dolphin is trained to swim to the intruder, bump him or her from behind to knock the device off its nose and swim away while military personnel take over.
Trained sea lions, another part of the U.S. Navy’s Marine Mammal Program, locate and tag mines just like dolphins, but that’s not all these “Navy Seals” do — they also cuff underwater intruders. The sea lions carry a spring clamp in their mouths that can be attached to a swimmer or diver by simply pressing it against the person’s leg. In fact, the sea lions are so fast that the clamp is on before the swimmer is even aware of it. Once a person is clamped, sailors aboard ships can pull the swimmer out of the water by the rope attached to the clamp.
These specially trained sea lions, part of the Navy’s Shallow Water Intruder Detection System, patrol Navy bases and were even deployed to protect ships from terrorists in the Persian Gulf.
Honeybees are natural-born sniffers with antennae able to sense pollen in the wind and track it down to specific flowers, so bees are now being trained to recognize the scents of bomb ingredients. When the bees pick up a suspicious odor with their antennae, they flick their proboscises — a tubular feeding organ than extends from their mouths. Watch them in action at this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T7d0bze4kM
A honeybee bomb-detection unit would look like a simple box stationed outside airport security. Inside the box, bees would be strapped into tubes and exposed to puffs of air where they could constantly check for the faint scent of a bomb. A video camera linked to pattern-recognition software would alert authorities when the bees started waving their proboscises in unison.
Homing pigeons were widely used by both American and British forces during World War II. The U.S. Army had an entire Pigeon Breeding and Training Center at Fort Monmouth, N.J., where the pigeons were trained to carry small capsules containing messages, maps, photographs and cameras. Military historians claim that more than 90 percent of all pigeon-carried messages sent by the U.S. Army during the war were received.
The birds even participated in the D-Day invasion because troops operated under radio silence. The pigeons sent information about German positions on Normandy beaches and reported back on the success of the mission. In fact, homing pigeons played such an important military role that 32 were awarded the Dickin Medal, Britain’s highest award for animal valor. Recipients of the medal include the U.S. Army Pigeon Service’s bird, G.I. Joe, and the Irish pigeon known as Paddy.
As you can see, a wide variety of creatures have participated in military efforts and are active in service today. My sincerest thanks and gratitude to all the brave men, women, and animals who selflessly protect our nation’s freedom.
Majority of information for blog came from https://www.mnn.com/earth-matters/animals/photos/10-ways-animals-have-served-the-military/in-the-army-now
Trick Or Treat, Smell My Feet… please don’t let Scruffy steal chocolate treats! (and a few other Halloween safety tips)
Halloween is one of my favorite holidays BY FAR! Who doesn’t love an excuse to slightly over indulge on lovely chocolate and sweet treats, especially anything with peanut butter (Reese’s are my true weakness)! As much fun as the chocolate can be for us, it is extremely dangerous for our pets and the calls to animal poison control centers increase for chocolate ingestion now more than any other time of year! Listed below are several other potential dangers for your pets during All Hallows Eve. If we become more informed about all of the potential issues, this can save major headaches (and cash money) over the holiday season.
Pick Your Poison:
Chocolate. Everybody’s favorite, and the one that typically leads to the most calls to veterinarians this time of year. As many of you know, chocolate is problematic to cats and dogs. The darker the chocolate, the more toxic, and the smaller the quantity necessary to see effects. For pets with pre-existing heart disease or seizure conditions, the concern is even higher, as these are two of the big ‘target organs’ for the toxic effects of chocolate.
Raisin toxicity. Known to be a problem for some dogs (and possibly some cats), raisins may be found in your child’s candy bag as part of certain chocolate bars, or on their own from well-intentioned neighbors trying to provide healthier Halloween treats. We don’t know which pets will be sensitive to the toxic effects of raisins, nor the number of raisins that must be ingested before problems are seen. It’s best to play it safe and take the necessary precautions to prevent all of your pets from ingesting any quantity of raisins. (Grapes and currants have the same toxic potential as raisins, and so should be similarly avoided.)
The actual treats in your kid’s Halloween bounty aren’t the only potential problem for your pets either. Candy wrappers that are eaten by your pet can also lead to digestive system inflammation and/or obstruction, resulting in episodes of vomiting and/or diarrhea, as well as an unplanned trip to the veterinarian, and possibly the surgery table. Keep candy well out of reach of all your pets. Hang your children’s candy bag high-up on a wall hook or coat rack, and don’t leave the trick-or-treat candy you are planning on distributing sitting out on the coffee table while waiting for the neighborhood kids to start arriving.
It’s bird, it’s a plane…it’s UNDERDOG!:
I don’t know about you all, but I love any chance for an embarrassing photo opportunity for my pet. Case in point…my little Underdog and her look of disgust below. When it comes to costumes for our furry friends, keep these tips in mind:
- Avoid loose pieces of fabric and dangling small objects (such as bells). Pets may be tempted to chew off such objects. And if swallowed, you could be looking at a veterinary bill in excess of $1,500 to have it removed from their stomach or intestines since many of these objects will not pass on their own.
- Avoid masks on pets. Masks can obstruct your pet’s vision and/or their ability to breathe. If your pet can’t see well they’re at greater risk of traumatic injuries – such as broken bones from stepping in holes or falling off curbs, as well as from being struck by a passing car. Broken bones require expensive surgeries to repair, and hit-by-car injuries can result in prolonged intensive care hospital stays and/or death.
- If you plan on taking your pet with you around the neighborhood for your night of Halloween fun, be sure to include some reflective or self-illuminating material on your pet’s costume. The earlier it gets dark out, the less visibility cars have overall so anything you can do to increase your pet’s visibility to passing cars will help to ensure that they won’t wind up getting hit by one of them. Also consider putting a flashing light on their collar for nighttime walks, at Halloween and throughout the year.
While we’re on the topic of trick or treating, for pets that will join you around the neighborhood, keep them on a leash the whole time. A leash will not only keep your pet from darting in front of a passing car, but it will also help you prevent them from eating dropped candy which could be potentially toxic. Leashes also prevent dog fights and keep spooked dogs from running off. Little children in costumes can set up a potentially terrifying situation for some of our more anxious pets. Importantly, don’t let a young child be the only one holding on to your pet’s leash during the walk. This is good advice throughout the year, but even more so on Halloween when passing trick-or-treaters are an additional factor that can cause pets to slip their collars or pull away from their leash.
Keep your cats inside on and around Halloween. Aside from all the normal dangers that outdoor cats face daily, Halloween (and the even more dangerous ‘Mischief Night’ that precedes it) potentially carries with it the additional dangers of twisted kids (and sadly, adults too) intentionally traumatizing, mutilating, or otherwise torturing cats on these nights, especially black cats. Though such incidences sadly occur throughout the year, there may be an increased risk associated with this holiday. Don’t take the chance – keep ‘em inside.
The constantly opening doors associated with gobs of tiny trick-or-treaters also pose a significant danger to pets. Pets with access to opening doors may take advantage of the opportunity to bolt out of the house, not only putting them in danger of the typical outdoor hazards unrestrained pets face, but also of having a paw, tail, or other part of their body caught in the door as they make their escape. Such traumatic events can cause injuries significant enough to warrant an expensive orthopedic surgery or a prolonged hospital stay. Confine your pets to a ‘safe area’ of the house to prevent their access to open doors. Use pet crates, baby gates, or closed doors to do so. Providing them with food, water, litter boxes, and anything else that will be necessary to minimize their stress (perhaps an interactive food toy or a turned on television or radio) will also help to decrease the likelihood of destructive behaviors or loud barking.
With a little effort, our pets have the potential to have just as much fun as their people this Halloween season. As long as we take the necessary precautions to keep our pets safe, there’s no reason we all
have a HOWLING good time! Happy Haunting everyone!
1. How old were you when you decided to become a veterinarian?
Like a lot of my colleagues, I wanted to become a veterinarian ever since I was a little kid, around 5 years old. It was the idea of what a veterinarian actually was that changed for me over the years. When I was in high school, I got to job shadow through the Interact program and Key Club and got a much better idea of what the job entailed and I fell in love with the career. My work as a zookeeper at Niabi Zoo solidified my want to work with wildlife and exotic species.
As much as I love the work with the variety of species I see on a daily basis, what I love most about the job is giving back to the community and working with the owners of all these pets. Establishing a relationship with my clients and their family and getting to know them is a lot of fun.
3. What’s the most interesting case you’ve ever had?
During my last year of vet school, a large male Rottweiler came into the clinic with a swollen abdomen and we took x-rays, thinking the dog had a twisted stomach. When we began surgery, there was nothing wrong with the stomach at all and everything appear normal within the abdomen. During surgery, the dog’s right hind leg began to swell and he did not recover well from surgery. We ended up having to keep him in the ICU and do several more surgeries and through diagnostic testing and bacterial culture, we discovered that he had flesh-eating bacteria, necrotizing fasciitis, and was unfortunately unable to recover. I will probably never see a case like that again in my lifetime.
4. What’s the most difficult part of your job?
Humane euthanasia is always the most difficult part for me. It is such an emotional time for the owners and I’m a crier anyway, so it doesn’t help the situation. The blessing of working with animals is that we have the ability to alleviate their suffering in cases of a severe, incurable disease or when it’s time for them to cross that rainbow bridge, but it’s never a happy experience and doesn’t get any easier.
5. Why become a vet when you could have gone into human medicine and made more money?
Because of the variety of species I work with, every day brings something new and challenging. With the exotic animals that I see, as well as the animals from Niabi Zoo, the database of knowledge in some of these critters is extremely limited and brings about my “MacGyver” skills, trying to find new ways to treat patients that have never been done before as well as diagnose their diseases. More money would be nice, but I think I would get bored. I love what I do, so the money really isn’t a factor for me.
6. We know you have to like animals for this job but what are the other unique requirements?
Communication skills, creative thinking, and flexibility. Not every patient presents the same way, even if they have the same disease, and not every owner has the same budget so the approach to disease treatment and animal management is always different.
7. How has veterinary medicine changed since your parent’s time?
8. Even though both jobs require the same amount of education; how does veterinary medicine differ from human medicine beyond the obvious question of species?
Many veterinarians “do everything” still, even though we have specialists. There are so many general practitioners in the veterinary world that act as a surgeon, dentist, nutritionist, physical therapist, Chiropractor (wink, wink Dr. Meredith), radiologist, and many more. Your role changes so frequently based on your patient and its needs. This is much different than practitioners in the human world.
9. What do you think the new horizons for veterinary medicine will be?
Holistic medicine is becoming more prominent, as well as animal nutrition. Owners are becoming much more aware of the nutritional needs of their pets and asking a lot more information about appropriate diets.
10. If someone gave you a magic wand and you could go back and do it over again, would you still become a vet?
Yes, but I’d never want to do vet school again!
All dogs can bite. We like to think that we can avoid any difficulties with our pets by simply choosing the “right” breed; not so. Although you may not actually cause behavior problems in your pet, you can unknowingly reward them. Since we know that it is always easier to prevent rather than change an established behavior: developing ways to make your pet a good family member and citizen should be an important part of pet ownership.
Biting is not the only thing we complain about. Barking, jumping up, digging, house soiling, chewing on inappropriate items, food aggression and fear of strangers are just some of the things we don’t like. Can these behaviors be prevented? Of course they can. Sometimes it is simply a matter of management. Others require an active effort on your part to train and socialize your pet. Here are some ideas for keeping making your pet a good citizen.
- Teach your dog to sit. This should be the first thing a puppy learns. Any pup old enough to go to a new home is capable of learning to sit. It’s OK to teach the command by using a treat. The ASPCA has a great site that will show you how to teach a sit. The importance of this command in your relationship with your pet is that sitting quietly is a prerequisite before any kind of interaction with you. That means that you don’t unthinkingly pet your dog should they bump or rub against your hand. Believe it or not if you are consistent about requiring a quiet sit first and socializing second, it will set a solid base from which to build your relationship with your new dog.
- Better yet, try an obedience class. There are very few dogs that won’t benefit from obedience training. It doesn’t have to be a competitive obedience class and it doesn’t have to involve harsh methods. Look for something that will help you with basic commands and routine maintenance such as nail trimming, tooth brushing and socialization with other pets and people. The key is to establish good communication with your pet from the beginning.
- Get your pet out in the world. You can’t expect your dog to comfortable in the world if they never get beyond your backyard. Once your pet is properly immunized, wormed and protected from fleas, get them out to parks, for car rides and long walks. If your schedule is extra busy, consider putting them in doggie daycare but please don’t just lock them in the backyard.
- Spay or neuter your pet. This can’t be said often enough. The reasons for keeping a dog intact are very few indeed. Hormones will always get in the way of training. Worse, they can cause dog to dog aggression and lead to health problems later in life.
- Children and dogs should always be supervised. Obviously this is not only important for the safety of the child but for the pet as well. Children can’t read animal body language. They are often at eye level with a pet and may be seen as lower in social ranking than adults. Children need to be taught to how handle their pet gently yet assertively. Even when pet and child are both trained, they never be left alone together.
- Take your pet to the vet for something other than vaccines. If you happen to be driving by the vet’s office, stop in. Bring the dog inside for some treats. Let the staff pet them and then go home. You will be surprised how much more relaxed your pet will be if you do this a few times.
- If you run into a problem you can’t handle, call a professional. There is nothing wrong with asking someone more experienced to help you with your pet. The key is to go for help before a problem gets out of hand.
This is only meant to get you started thinking in the right direction. Talk to your veterinarian about trainers in your area if you’re unsure where to go. Just remember to have fun and always keep your pet social.
Dog fights are frightening. Worse, trying to figure out what started the fight in the first place can be confusing. That’s because there are many different reasons why dogs fight.
The first thing to determine is what constitutes a fight. Dogs may scuffle and argue while establishing hierarchy, teaching a younger dog the rules of behavior, curbing over enthusiastic play or just testing the boundaries of an established relationship (such as a young dog testing the authority of the top dog as it ages). Scuffles may be loud but they are usually short in duration and don’t cause any injuries. However, the one thing that can make a scuffle turn south is an interfering human. Sometimes the best thing we can do is to let our dogs settle the small stuff themselves. Learn to stand back and watch for some moments before interfering.
Fights are a different story altogether. Fights can be bloody and cause injury to both animals involved. Fights are just bad news.
What sets off aggressive behavior?
- Anxiety: Dogs who were not properly socialized as puppies and do not understand the social cues of other dogs will respond with anxiety and/or aggression. They also appear unstable to other dogs who may respond aggressively.
- Resources: Food, toys, favorite dog beds, the couch and you can all be important resources in the eyes of your dog. If the top dog claims the lion’s share of the toys and you redistribute them “fairly” a fight may ensue.
- Excitement: Try not to generate too much craziness when you play with your dogs. Over the top adrenaline can cause a fight in even the most stable of dog families.
- New Dog: Adding a new dog to the household upsets the hierarchy. There may be just minor scuffles or a major fight as the social order is rearranged.
- A housemate coming back home after illness, dog shows or travel: Different smells and just the excitement of a homecoming can cause enough instability to start a fight. It is usually a good idea to arrange a cautious reintroduction to the pack at home.
- Top dog is ill or dies: The sudden death or loss of health of an established leader of the pack can throw everything into a flux. Younger or lower ranking dogs may see their opportunity to move up and start conflicts.
- Pain: Pain induced aggression can occur when the affected animal strikes out in fear and anxiety,
- Leash Aggression: Some dogs react aggressively on lead either because they fear they will not be able to retreat if needed, they think their owner will back them up or their owner is telegraphing their own anxiety down the lead and unstablizing the dog.
- Mother love: Females will always protect their young. Motherly protectiveness may cause them to attack housemates they have previously co-existed with amiably.
- Territory: a normally peaceable dog may become aggressive if a stranger enters his yard.
Aggression is best prevented by good management and early intervention on the part of the owner. Learn to recognize the signs of aggressive behavior and body language.
- Direct and unwavering stare at the other dog.
- Hackles up
- Stiff and rigid body posture and movement.
- Lowering of the head.
- Growling, raised lips that show the teeth or a tight closed mouth.
- Standing over or raising up of the body next to the other dog.
How do you prevent fights before they happen?
- Spay and Neuter. Can we say that too much?
- Socialize your puppy!!! Puppy classes need to start as early as possible, As soon as your puppy has had two in the series of vaccines and has been wormed get them in a controlled environment with other dogs.
- If you get a second dog make it the opposite sex of your current pet. Same sex households have more fights.
- Feed and give treats separately
- Avoid too many dogs in too small of an area. Make sure everyone has a place to get away from each other.
- Allow your dogs to establish a pecking order without interfering. A few growls and scuffles should establish who is boss and what acceptable behavior is. Helpful humans cause a lot of fights.
- Establish a routine and stick to it. Order begets order.
- If you aren’t sure everyone gets along and you can’t be there to monitor, use crates when you’re gone.
- The more dogs you have, the greater the chance of fights.
- Know your breeds. Any dog can fight but if you have a dominant terrier you better adjust your management to fit a feisty personality.
What if a fight breaks out?
- DO NOT scream and yell. That just adds to the adrenaline.
- DO NOT put your hands anywhere in the middle of a dog fight. You will get bit.
- First try distraction. Command OFF or LEAVE IT or whatever command you have to stop activity.
- Try an air horn or a shaker can as distraction
- Use a tennis racket, small board or other object to get in between the dogs.
- If that doesn’t work move up to a water hose or commercial citronella spray. Once they are separated get them in different areas of the house until everyone calms down. If you feel it is safe, allow them to calm down in the same room but make certain you act as leader and no new fighting erupts.
- Spend time trying to figure out what set off the fight and how you can change your management to prevent future problems.
- If you aren’t sure what to do…consult your veterinarian for their advice and recommendations for an appropriate trainer.
We are well into the season of thunder storms and fireworks. If you have a dog that is afraid of loud noises their fear can take much of the fun out of summer. An anxious dog may cower, salivate, pace, hide, howl or even destroy furniture during storms. Finding ways to calm them can be difficult.
Fear is a normal response. It is what keeps us from being run over by a car or falling off a cliff. In those cases fear acts as an adaptive response that aids in survival. However, if fear keeps us from performing everyday tasks it is not normal.
No one really knows for certain why some dogs become fearful and others do not. Some breeds appear to be more prone to developing phobias. In other cases a past traumatic event may be linked to specific noises and act as a fear inducing stimuli.
What are some of the things you can do to help your dog cope with fearful situations?
1) First, determine if your dog is afraid of the sounds or if there are other factors that comes into play. Dogs with storm phobias may be reacting to stimuli such as the flashing lightning, static in the air, rainfall or the wind.
- Try placing your dog a room without windows. Does this reduce anxiety?
- Now try placing foam earplugs or cotton in your dog’s ears . If this seems to help the problem is more likely noise related.
2) Find a safe place for your dog.
- Where does your dog gravitate when frightened? Make sure that area is accessible during a storm or scary event. It could be the basement, bathroom or under the bed. Do not put your dog in a crate unless that is their safe place. Otherwise they could be injured trying to escape.
3) Try adding in white noise. This could be music or even the television as long as it helps distract and/or cover up other scary sounds. Do not make it so loud that it becomes yet another source of anxiety for your pet.
4) Try a thunder shirt. These are wraps that are similar to a swaddling wrap that is used on infants. Your dog has complete freedom of movement but the pressure provides relief and comfort..
5) Distract your dog with something pleasurable. That may be a favorite toy or activity. In cases of mild anxiety this may provide relief.
6) Dog Appeasement Pheromone (DAP) is a product that is believed to reduce anxiety. It is available as a spray or diffuser. Some owners swear by these products.
7) The ASPCA has great information on desensitizing and counter conditioning. Be careful and work with a behavioral specialist because if desensitizing is done incorrectly, you can actually make your dog worse.
8) Medications that control anxiety can be used along with other methods to increase success. Consult your veterinarian about these and all medications.
9) Never punish your dog for being fearful. That will only compound the problem.
10) Don’t over reassure your dog either. Telling them over and over what a poor baby they are may actually reinforce their fearful behavior.
11) Finally, make certain that you are calm. If you’re afraid of storms and loud noises you can’t be much help to your pet.
We see lots of new puppies at Animal Family this time of year. Everybody loves them! They are sweet little bundles of fuzzy cuteness! They make coming to work wonderful!
We also do a lot of spays and neuters for the Humane Society of Scott County. From past experience, we know that when fall rolls around there will be an uptick in surrendured young adult dogs. Fortunately for us, we will only see those that are lucky enough to be adopted.
According to the ASPCA, “approximately 5 million to 7 million companion animals enter animal shelters nationwide every year, and approximately 3 million to 4 million are euthanized (60 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats). Shelter intakes are about evenly divided between those animals relinquished by owners and those picked up by animal control. These are national estimates; the percentage of euthanasia may vary from state to state.”
That is a really sad statistic. We work closely with local shelters and are always surprised at the quality of the pets we see. These animals are neither worthless nor dangerous. In fact, often the opposite is true. Many are pure bred and almost all are loving, healthy animals who through no fault of their own end up homeless.
The 10 most common reasons owners give when surrendering a pet at the Humane Society of Scott County are:
- The owner is moving and is not able to take their pet with them
- The pet is too active for the owner to handle.
- The owner does not have enough time to devote to pet care
- The owner has encountered problems with housebreaking
- The animal is too expensive to care for.
- The animal is too young, too old or has developed health issues.
- The owner or a family member is allergic to the pet.
- The pet does not get along with another animal in the household.
- The pet belonged to a child who no longer lives in the home.
- The pet has become pregnant
Do you see a common thread among many of the reasons for pet relinquishment listed above? How many of these problems could be avoided by a little research and planning before acquiring a pet. For all the information on specific breeds that is available, it seems that people still jump into pet ownership on impulse.
So, please, before you bring a pet into your life, do your research. Think about your lifestyle, future plans, and overall health. How busy are you? Can you even afford a pet at this time? Do you have the time or interest for training, walks and general health and coat care. Don’t pick your pet based on looks. Don’t assume you have to have a puppy and never, ever give a pet as a gift without a thorough discussion with the prospective new owner first.
Thanks for taking the time to read this. Most importantly, thanks for taking the time to learn why we need to research before bringing any new pets into our life.
When it comes to puppy training consistency is the key.
Always use the same door to take your puppy outside to eliminate.
Take him or her to the same area. Hopefully once that area smells like urine and stool their sense of smell will help stimulate them to eliminate.
Go out with them, so you can praise while they are going and give a treat right afterwards. Don’t give them their treat once they are in the house. If you do, you praised them for is coming back in, not going potty outdoors.
Always use the same word for elimination, Start talking as soon as you take them out of the kennel and continue until you get to the designated place outside. Choose a word. It can be “go potty”, “do your business” or any other phrase that works for both you and your puppy.
If your puppy starts going to the door on his or her own, ask them to let you know it’s time to go out. An easy way to do this is to hang a bell by your door. You can teach the pup to touch the bell or simply reward them when they do it inadvertently.
If your puppy goes outside and doesn’t get down to business (within 5 minutes or so) bring them back indoors and put them in their kennel (yes I do recommend crates or kennels). Wait about 15-20 minutes and try again. Make a big deal about it when they go outside (“YEH!!! GOOD PUPPY, GOOD JOB….LOOK HOW SMART YOU ARE!!!!!”) Go ahead and give a treat as well. (Remember, give the treat while they are outside.)
Anytime your puppy has been playing for more the 30 minutes go outside again…… Puppies can’t engage in more than 30-50 minutes of active play without needing to eliminate!
Puppy stays in the kennel when you can’t give them 100 % of your attention!!!! That way they can’t sneak off into another room. Use it like a play pen or crib for babies . As they get better, try using the kennel less and less.
If your puppy makes a mistake in the house, clean it up thoroughly and be more vigilant. The fewer mistakes your puppy makes indoors the faster he or she will learn. No corrections unless you catch them in the act. If you see your pup going potty in the house, startle and redirect. Yell, shake a penny can or throw a toy towards them and then quickly take them to their designated area outdoors. Spankings just scare and confuse the puppy.
Repeat as needed for good house breaking…. If you put all of your work in at the beginning you and Rover WILL SUCCEED!
House breaking is easier in the winter. I find that you and your dog spend very little time outside, so the puppy really learns what you want. Whereas in the summer, when both people and pets want to spend a lot of time outside, puppy can potty any time and may have a much harder time understanding the actual mission. Still if you are consistent you will get the job done.
We try to keep our pets as safe as possible. We keep them leashed away from home. We feed them the best food we can provide. We keep their shots and worming current, we train them, and we love them. When we’re home they play safely in our fenced backyards.
How about that yard? Is it safe? When was the last time you took a good look around your back yard with the safety of your pet in mind? We recommend that you do it every spring and fall. What should you look for? Listed below are some of the hazards that could harm your pet.
The Mulch Pile:
The backyard mulch pile can be a very attractive and very dangerous place for your pet. Going green is great as long as you do it safely. We recommend that your mulch pile be securely fenced and pet proof.
- Mycotoxins which are found in moldy items like breads, cheese and dog food can make your dog seriously ill. Signs can range from vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal tenderness to seizures and permanent liver damage.
- Hops used in home brewing can kill your pet if ingested in even small amounts. The danger is present both before and after brewing. Signs are panting, rapid heart rate and a rapid increase in body temperature to the point of death.
- Macadamia nuts can cause ataxia (lack of coordination), anxiety, increased heart rate, tremors and temporary paralysis.
- Grapes, mushrooms, onions, garlic, tomato plants, black locust tree pods and seeds, any sugar free products containing Xylitol and coffee grounds are all dangerous for your pets as well. If your pet ingests any of these items call poison control and your veterinarian.
We all know how attractive and dangerous a pool is to small children but it can be just as deadly to your pets.
- Drowning is an obvious risk to both pets and children. Both may fall in and be unable to get out.
- Pool Chemicals can make your pet very sick. Animals are curious and will often taste whatever happens to be lying around. Ingesting pool chemicals can cause vomiting, breathing difficulty, seizures and loss of consciousness.
Be cognizant of what you plant. ASPCA poison Control has a complete list of plants that are toxic to animals. Please visit www.aspca.org/petcare/poisoncontrol/plants for the complete list. Plants can cause everything from local irritation and drooling to seizures and death.
Your first thought may be other aggressive animals. However, skunks, raccoons and possums can carry infectious diseases that can make you and your pet sick. This is why we preach vaccinate, vaccinate, vaccinate! It’s also a good idea not to feed your pets outdoors which is a sure way attract local wildlife.
- Rabies is carried by skunks, raccoons and bats and they all frequent back yards.
- Leptospirosis is transmitted through the urine of infected animals and can be transmitted to people and pets.
- Baylisascaris is a parasite that is harmless to Raccoons but deadly to humans due to its propensity to travel to our brains and wreak havoc.
- Bites and wounds and infections can occur if your dog or cat tries to defend their home turf from raccoons and other wildlife.
- Predation is an unpleasant prospect whether it involvesyour pet or wildlife.
Fertilizers, Herbicides and Pesticides
- Read your labels and use chemicals accordingly. Wait until chemicals are dry or as long as the directions indicate before allowing your pet back in the yard.
- Cover any food or water dishes before spraying. Don’t forget the bird bath.
- Store all chemicals safely and out of reach. Keep the original containers just in case you have an accidental exposure.
- Keep slug bait, rat poison and gopher bait well away from any place your pet can reach. Call your veterinarian and/or poison control if you even think your pet may ingested any of these products.
- Try to find a natural, poison free alternative whenever possible.
Dare we say it? Children are immature, impulsive and often lacking in judgment.
- Kids may think teasing your pet through the fence is fun but the end result may be an over stimulated, aggressive dog and bitten children. Nobody wants a barking, fence running dog for a neighbor no matter how the behavior was started.
- Children may throw food or other objects over the fence that can harm your pet. It’s a good idea to run a fence check frequently in warm months.
- Jumping dogs can catch a collar on the fence top and choke to death. Yes it happens.
- Small pets can be injured and even killed by over enthusiastic and unsupervised children. Again, yes it happens.
- Finally, no matter how safe you keep your yard, it doesn’t matter if children forget to close and latch the gate.
This isn’t a complete list of the potential dangers in the backyard jungle but hopefully we’ve got you thinking about pet proofing your property. Feel free to call us or contact through our web site or face book with any questions.
Spring is in the air and so is puppy love. This is the time of year when many of us yearn for a new puppy… what could be cuter? Dogs make wonderful companions. Just remember not to jump into pet ownership thoughtlessly. There are many factors that should be considered to ensure that your new puppy is the proper fit for your family.
- The first thing you need to look at is YOU. How active are you? Do you have children? How old are they? How old are you? Do you live in an apartment, single family home or in the country? Is your yard fenced? What is your personality like? Are you assertive, passive or somewhere in between? Do you have any disabilities or health issues? Do you mind spending time or money on grooming your pet? How picky are you about your house? Do you think pets should even be in the house? The list goes on but the point is the first thing you need to look at is your life and lifestyle.
Once you have an idea of your parameters, it’s time to start looking at the dog.
- What size of dog fits you? Large dogs require more space. They can be more difficult for a petite or older person to handle. They are more expensive to feed, medicate, spay or neuter. They can be a heck of a lot more work to exercise as well. As for small dogs: they require less of everything but activity. Size does not relate to activity level. There are some VERY busy small breeds.
- How about activity levels. You need to be very honest with yourself about what activity level you can tolerate in your pet. Age and general health may dictate a small, quiet, older animal. Are you interested in taking your dog to the dog park or out for a walk or run every day? Even with a large backyard, most active breeds will require additional exercise. If you’re a couch potato, many of the hunting and herding breeds may be too high energy for you. Think about your children as well. If they are too boisterous and rowdy, they may terrify some of the more timid breeds.
- Then there’s sociability. Do you want a dog that loves everyone or a more reserved animal that may bond only to you or your immediate family? If you love entertaining or traveling, be sure to get an animal that will enjoy it as well. Clearly, a one person dog would not be a great idea if you usually have your children as well as all the neighbors’ kids running through the house.
- Emotional stability is just as important. Some breeds are very easy going and unflappable. Others are less so. That includes many of the smaller breeds but some of the big guys as well. Again, this is particularly important if you have small children or an active social life. Do your homework and make certain you find a breed that will tolerate busy little hands and bodies.
- Trainability. Don’t confuse intelligence with trainability. Many of the so-called smart breeds can actually be quite difficult to train. Trainability should be thought of as the “will to please”. So, if you insist on perfect behavior, do your homework and plan on spending some time in obedience classes as well. But, if what you really want is a pet that will simply sit, lie down and not eat up the house there are plenty of contenders out there. PLEASE just don’t buy a highly motivated Border collie or other overachiever if you don’t have the time to keep them busy. When not kept occupied these doggie geniuses may end up destroying your home out of boredom and frustration.
- Dominance. Unfortunately many people confuse dominance and aggression. Most of the biting dogs we see in veterinary practice are actually fearful in nature. Dominant animals are generally confident if they have a calm, assertive owner. In the simplest terms dominance can be thought of as the how hard your dog will work to get his or her own way. Dominance is variable. Some dogs may just be dominant over other dogs but submissive to people. Dominance is not related to size either. There are a lot of pint sized Napoleons out there. Be sure to match your will to rule to that of your future pet.
- Hardiness. Pay special attention to hardiness when selecting a breed. Bulldogs and some of the short-faced (brachycephalic) breeds don’t do well in the heat. Chihuahuas, Greyhounds and other short coated dogs are not suited to outdoor life in the colder climates. Matted coats, burned skin, heat stroke or frost bite may all be the consequences of wrong choices made on your part. Then again, some breeds have been so completed altered by human kind that they are born with an array of health problems just waiting to happen. No matter what, it’s still best to know ahead of time.
- Grooming. Do you mind brushing your dog every day? How about a grooming bill once a month? How about a really big grooming bill once a month? Would you prefer a non-shedding coat? How about a dog with almost no coat at all? Do you know how to care for eyes and ears or nails and matted hair? What about anal glands? Every breed has different grooming care needs. Don’t overlook this when selecting your dog.
Great dogs can be found in a lot of places. That includes shelters and rescue groups. We wish you good luck in your search and hope that you have figured out that picking the right puppy involves a lot more than who’s got the cutest brown eyes. Hopefully, you now know that it takes a well thought out plan that combines your needs with those of your future pet. So be sure to use all of the resources available to you. Read books, attend dog shows, ask your veterinarian, talk to your friends, talk to breed associations, do whatever it takes to make yourself aware and educated. Then go ahead and take the big leap into puppy love.